A Brave Weekend at Corregidor, Part II

The Batteries

Roughly intact 12-inch mortars abound the island. With the help of our tour guide we learned how these artilleries constituted the defense system of World War II. Battery Way was an effective means of countering the Japanese artillery in Bataan, while Battery Hern, one of the last major additions to Corregidor's defense, was designed to frustrate naval threat from the China Sea. Battery Geary and Battery Crockett were considered the most effective anti-personnel weapons of the island. Both could fire in any direction, but Battery Crocket was mounted on disappearing carriages ---that's why it's called a disappearing battery. There are a total of six disappearing gun batteries in the island, one of which is the Battery Grubbs which is the best site for sunset viewing.

The Ruins and Shrines

On our way to the Pacific War Memorial, the main attraction on the Topside, we passed by the YMCA Building, Middleside Barracks, Senior Officers Quarters and the Topside or Milelong Barracks. Our tour guide said that these buildings were made of first class cement imported from Japan while the steel bars came from the US. Milelong, world's longest military barracks for having a length of 1,520 feet, is a three-deck hurricane proof building for American officers and served as McArthur's headquarters. The three-storey Middleside Barracks housed the 60th Coast Artillery Regiment and the 91st Philippine Scout Coast Artillery Regiment. These two buildings were among the first damaged when Japanese first attacked Corregidor.

Standing on the highest part of Corregidor is the Pacific War Memorial dedicated to the Filipino and American soldiers who fought for freedom. Forty-five minutes was given to us by our tour guide to explore the whole memorial complex. To the memorial's left side are the ruins of Cine Corregidor, the old movie theatre where its former lobby now houses the cars of two great players during that time, Pres. Manuel L. Quezon and Gen. Douglas McArthur. Opposite the Cine Corregidor are the ruins of the Bachelor Officer's Quarters, while behind is the museum that houses war artifacts. (Of all the things that interest me in the museum was the old Coca-Cola bottle that tickled my imagination on how soldiers took break-time on the battlefield!) Located at the back of the memorial complex is a wing-shaped steel sculpture designed by Aristedes Demetrios symbolizing the flame of freedom burning eternally.

Just a hop away the area is a reconstruction of the Old Spanish Lighthouse where we got an awesome view of Manila Bay, the South China Sea, the neighboring provinces of Bataan and Cavite, plus a bird's eye view of the island. The original lighthouse was built by the Spaniards in 1836 and was replaced by a bigger one in 1897 before being destroyed by the war. Beside the lighthouse is a memorabilia store where you can buy the best souvenirs from Corregidor after that wonderful experience being atop the highest point in the island. (What I brought home for you? Well, my stories!)

The two newest landmarks in Corregidor are the Filipino Heroes Memorial that was erected in 1987 during the Aquino government, and the Japanese Garden of Peace which was constructed and maintained by Japan-based private groups. Filipino Heroes Memorial has 14 murals of famous and obscure Filipino heroes who fought for freedom, starting from the Battle of Mactan in 1521 to the People Power of Edsa in 1986. It was sculptured by Manuel Casal.

Another must-see memorial is the Fil-Am Friendship Park located at the Middleside. This former civilian community named Barrio Conception is now a fully landscaped park with 10-foot-statues of Filipino and American soldiers shown assisting each other.

The Malinta Tunnel Experience

Before the day tour ends everybody has the chance to experience the dramatic light and sound show restaging the war story of Corregidor, right at the historic-bomb-proof Malinta Tunnel. Scripted by late National Artist Lamberto Avellana, the show recapped the whole fun-filled touring experience of the day. (But do you know that there are more to discover in Malinta Tunnel? Wait until I tell you how exciting it was to visit its laterals at night. Spooky?)

Gearing Up for More

It was time to bid goodbye to new friends, as most of them headed for the wharf where the same Sun-Cruiser would bring them back to Manila. We overnighters were dropped off by the tranvia to the Corregidor Hotel where we started managing our own timetables. The serenity of the place fits exactly the quietude lovers, while the more adventurous individuals have plenty of things to experience. The hotel offers free-of-charge activities that include sunset and sunrise viewing and a night lateral visit at the Malinta Tunnel. Other alluring activities with minimal fees include fishing, hiking and boating around the island.

It was only 2:30 PM and long before the sunset, so we decided to take some rest on our hotel room. But despite the comfort of the cushioned-bed, thoughts of the activities made me more energetic. After grabbing some snacks, we set off for an afternoon beach walk where we got delighted in picking stones called "blood stained-stones" because of its bloodlike designs. Legends say that those are the bloods of soldiers who died in the battle ---Filipinos, Americans and Japanese, no distinctions. Before long, it was 5:00 PM, 30 minutes before the sunset. We hurried to the hotel with handfuls of stones we picked for souvenir.

A Brave Weekend At Corregidor, Part I

Aiming for a historic getaway, I found myself Saturday morning onboard the Sun Cruises ferry heading for Corregidor ----an island of valor. Situated 26 miles west of Manila, this tadpole-shaped island lies off the southern tip of Bataan Peninsula and is a strategic entrance to Manila Bay. A 45-minute bay cruise was invigorating, not just for viewing the waves and fishing boats, but also for learning some fast-facts and historical background of the island coming from the professional tour guides, the same guides that would bring us around when we get to the destination.

Where is Corregidor?

Corregidor, which belongs to the province of Cavite, has always been mistaken as part of Bataan. I got various explanations to this. Some connect the idea with the island's proximity to Bataan which takes only 30 minutes to reach by pumpboat, unlike Cavite that is an hour and 45 minute-bay cruise. Another account explicates that every time the Voice of Freedom (the radio station during the war) broadcast, Bataan and Corregidor were mentioned side-by-side because the two were the center battlefields, thus sticking to the people's mind its interrelation even after the war. Those are all correct, but the best explanation came from tour guide Pablito Martinez who recounted the island was indeed a part of Bataan during the Spanish era. Corregidor was then called La Isla de Mariveles, serving as signal station of home coming galleon. It was only in December 3, 1909 that the island was given to the province of Cavite by virtue of an executive order of then governor Gen. Cameron Forbes.

History Quick Review

For a greater appreciation of Corregidor, one must first get a feel of history. Viewing and taking pictures of ruined barracks and gaping batteries would never be as memorable if you know somehow to connect your spirit to the destination. Corregidor witnessed one of the fiercest battles in the world history, the World War II. The island was completely devastated between 1941 and 1945, first when the combined forces of Filipinos and Americans commanded by Gen. Douglas McArthur fell under the hands of the then-imperialist Japanese, and when they hit back to regain independence after almost three years of captivity.

World War II broke out in the Philippines in December 8, 1941, prompting the government of then President Manuel L. Quezon to move in to the Malinta Tunnel of Corregidor on a Christmas Eve. Japanese first attacked the island in December 29, 1941 grimly damaging the Middleside and the Topside Barracks, also known as the Milelong Barracks, and the hospital area. This resulted to the transfer of McArthur's headquarters from Milelong to a lateral in Malinta Tunnel and the construction of another lateral called the "1000 bed hospital" which actually housed 2,000 patients at a time. Around 7:30 in the evening of March 11, 1942 McArthur left the island heading for Darwin, Australia, passing through the now popular "McArthur's escape tunnel". According to tour guide Mr. Martinez, the general did not use the main tunnel in exiting because he did not want to dissuade his men seeing him leave in the middle of the war. Corregidor was the last stronghold of Fil-Am forces to surrender in May 6, 1942 with over 13,000 survivors.

The Japanese ruled the island (and the whole country) not until February 16, 1945 when American forces parachuted and landed on the Topside, starting the offensive to regain the land. After ten days of aggressive fighting the Japanese fell, with only 20 survivors. This later totaled to 42 when the rest surrendered after 11 months of hiding at the tunnel of Battery Monja. Majority of the Japanese soldiers committed suicide by blowing themselves on the tunnels of Malinta and Monkey Point and jumping off the highest cliff, now called "the suicide cliff". It was an honor for them to die than to surrender, explained to me by another tour guide Mr. Bobby Fulcher. Came March 2, 1945 McArthur officially declared the liberation of the Philippines.

Start the Fun

As I set foot on the island, I couldn't wait to discover all the places mentioned. Unique open-air busses, called Tranvia, would take us around with one tour-guide each bus --- your choice of Japanese-speaking or English-speaking guides. If you happen to board the wrong bus, don't worry, Japanese-speaking tour guides are bilingual. This 500-plus-hectare island with huge limestone formations is about four miles long and half a mile at its widest point. Its tadpole shape divides the island into four parts-the tailside, bottomside, middleside and the topside, where most of the major caliber seacoast artilleries were placed. Its strategic location at the bay was the basis why Americans fortified the island in 1902 as a military reservation. Here stand the greatest and biggest batteries for defense, named after American generals. There are 23 gun-emplacements in the island, but on a day tour only four of the more intact and powerful batteries can be visited.

As we boarded the tranvia, I readied my camera to take snap photos of all the sites ---starting off at the famous Lorcha Dock where Gen. McArthur uttered the words "I Shall Return", before departing for Australia.