I know my country produces the best mangoes (somehow subjective, of course)and I took this fact for granted, until I visited Iloilo and found myself delighted with the mouth-watering mangoes they served me. Upon knowing those mangoes came from a former sub-province of Iloilo that can be reached within 30 minutes from the city's wharf, I wasted no time in planning to see this most promising province with the name Guimaras!
A place where mango tree population is greater than its inhabitants, Guimaras takes pride as the Philippine exporter of mangoes. This province is composed of a small island and neighboring islets (some are as small as 50 square-meters) resting between the provinces of Iloilo and Negros Occidental. Both Negros and Iloilo are best jump-off point to Guimaras.
From what was supposed to be just a weekend getaway in Iloilo, we extended it for another two days to accommodate my yearned adventures in the so called “mango state.” Ilongos (natives of Iloilo) I met attested there are more than just mangoes in Guimaras---that further thrilled me to discover the rest. Would you like to join us? Pack your bags, and let’s go!
But before boarding the motorboat that would bring us to Jordan, the capital of Guimaras, let me give you this tip: don’t get annoyed if after you stepped on the land of Guimaras the local coastguards would inspect all your luggage. They are not alarmed about Swiss knife or any metal objects, what they are guarding most are their mangoes ---they are watchful not to have their mangoes crossbreed. The point is, you can bring mangoes outside of Guimaras, but you can never bring in even a single one.
If you happen to have no idea of the best resort or getaway in this tiny province, you can conveniently drop by the provincial tourism which set up a small office beside the Jordan dockside, basically to provide immediate help to tourists. There are more than a dozen resorts in the coastline boasting of white beaches, but if you prefer more serene and rustic setting you definitely are my kind. Let’s go to island resorts!
A 100,000 square-meter islet in the southern side of Guimaras, called Nagarao Island Resort was our destination. One and a half hour jeepney ride from Jordan wharf across dusty roads brought us to a small private pier where I got really amazed with the unique way of announcing our arrival. We raised a red flag to signal our coming to the staff of the resort almost a kilometer away! With that initial experience I immediately felt the simplicity and candor of the place we were heading.
Less than 15 minutes later a pumpboat arrived and fetched us. While our boat nearly approached the islet I drew out my neck in getting the best view of this destination that promised to be a rustic and peaceful haven. Though I almost got elongated neck, still I could not see cottages or even a single dwelling in the islet because it is literally amid lush vegetation!
After docking, the resort staff led us to the sandy walkway underneath mangroves and pandan trees (a local plant belonging to the coconut species). It was only then that I saw its “hidden assets” ---cottages made up of local woods and bamboo, a small plain swimming pool, and the “main bungalow” that holds the common dining area. Don’t expect landscaped gardens and 5-star hotel accommodation, but I tell you, this place has a character of its own that you would never learn how to describe. Well, we can get started by calling it “a paradise lost.”
Before sundown we started to wander around the place through following a hiking trail. 30 minutes and we were able to see the whole islet. No manicured lawn and well-groomed flowers---there is actually nothing that will tempt you to take a second look, except when you reach the hills and cliffs of the trail. From there I was trying to picture the corals revealed on the beach during low tide. The place is devoid of pretensions of technology and creative designs, it is plain nature…and that makes it captivating!
One more thing that makes this resort more special is the way it serves its guests. We were actually treated not as visitors but as part of one big family. We ate our meals together with the rest of the tourists (local and foreign alike) in a long dining table that accommodates at least 20 persons. Service is very personal, it’s like living in an ancestral house with kind and reliable housekeepers. Most of the tourists are regular vacationers and what kept them from coming back is the feel of being in a “home away from home”.
Except for island hoping and snorkeling which are best in the morning, there are not so much activities you can do in this islet in the afternoon. Serene and simple living is what this islet boasts about.
After dusk I waited for the moonlight while enjoying the night sea breeze at the garden-bench beside our cottage. On our cottage’s left is an inviting view of the beach while a soothing sight of the trees and grass is on the other side. From there I clearly saw the waves crashing on the coast and forming cloud-like illusions on the sea. As the moon slowly rose, I felt being put to sleep by the lullaby created by the sounds of the waves and night birds. I felt almost dreaming.
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