The Ifugaos, contrary to the stereotypes

Much has been written about the Ifugaos -their culture, their society, their literature. But who really are they now? Are they still the g-stringed uncivilized Cordillerans we usually see portrayed on television's travel programs and on travel magazines?

Though the Ifugaos are whom we call the liberty-loving Filipinos who resisted colonization of the Spaniards in the early 19th century, they did not remain isolated with the rest of the people. Despite the rugged and steep terrains, gradual improvements in the society did not leave them untouched. And when these changes occur, how are their traditional values and practices affected?

However, before we touch deeper on this ...let us first have a short overview of their culture, history and literature so we can have a full grasp of how much changes they embraced for three centuries now.

The Ifugao province is at the heart of the Cordillera, and is composed of several enthnolinguistic groups which are commonly grouped into three --Western, Eastern and Central. Tuwali, Ayangan and Kalanguya are the official spoken languages in each respective group. According to Lourdes Dulawan, a full-blooded Ifugao, in her book "Ifugao Culture and History," the early Ifugaos called themselves Ipugo, which literally means "from the hills." When the Spanish colonizers came, they changed it to Ifugaw, and it was the Americans who changed the spelling to Ifugao.

The structure of the early Ifugao society was based on the kindship system, and their ancestors play the most important role in the system. Their ancestors are involved in all types of rituals because for them rites are family affairs.

One of these rites is the baki or rites for man and for rice culture. The baki rites are the core of Ifugao's tribal religion. These rites, performed by the native priest called mumbaki, are done at the start of every man's life and every stage of rice agriculture. The mumbaki invokes the ancestors to act as mediators to the gods.

The Ifugaos have a lengthy hierarchy of gods which includes bagol (the superior gods), maknongan (gods to whom sacrifice are due), kabunyan (god of the skyworld), dalom (god of the underworld), lagud (god of the east), and daya (god of the west).

For every rite performed, a god or set of concerned gods are invoked and offered sacrifices with, depending on the purpose of the rite or the type of favor being sought.

The kindship system is also very important in solving conflicts. Whenever there's a disagreement between members of a clan, a member not concerned with the dispute will settle the rift amicably. However, if it concerns two different clans the general rule is clan against clan. It is where "vendetta" enters -when a member of a clan is murdered, the victim's family or clan shall avenge the death to preserve the clan's social prestige. If vendetta is not sought, the family and the whole clan will be scorned by the community.

The Ifugao's traditional society is divided into three classes -the wealthy, called kadangan; the common, tagu; and the poor, referred as nawotwot. Their wealth includes rice fields, granaries, golds, beads, heirlooms and animals. However, possession of such materials doesn't automatically include the family in the class of the wealthy, rather they are expected to perform the customary prestige feasts like the uyauy (the wedding feast) and the hagibi (the ultimate prestige feast).

A Brave Weekend at Corregidor (Final of the Series)

Sunset and Lateral Visit

Sunset was cloudy but very inviting. Atop the Battery Grubbs we captured the mountain-clad Corregidor in a magnificent hue. I marveled on how beautiful sunset was if not cloudy. I did not waste time in taking photographs, getting good shots of the neighboring island of La Monja and a panoramic view of Mariveles, Bataan. When the night falls, we proceeded to the spooky Malinta Tunnel for the lateral visit. But wait, I forgot to tell you that before we trooped to the Battery Grubbs we passed by the old hospital at the topside. As mentioned in the first series of this Corregidor story (A Brave Weekend at Corregidor Part I), that hospital was one of the first bombed by the Japanese. This incident drove the force of Gen. McArthur to put up a hospital area inside the Malinta Tunnel, which was later called the 1000-bed hospital.

Entering the main tunnel at night was very thrilling, much more was striding towards its laterals. Our tour guide evenly distributed among us big flashlights, which served as our only light source inside this historic fort of beleaguered World War II soldiers. "Watch your head!" was our consistent warning to each other as the passageway becomes narrower and we bent our knees lower. Then, "watch your feet!" because the excavation of some parts of the laterals was left unfinished, not to mention those holes and cracks brought by the offensive and defensive attacks in the war. As we reached the location where hundreds of Japanese committed suicide by blowing themselves up, I entertained creepy thoughts in my mind, making the exploration quite eerie but more stirring! Next point near the East Entrance was the lateral of Pres. Quezon where we found momentous framed pictures hanged on the walls. The photographs captured the commonwealth president's unwavering spirit despite being stricken with tuberculosis, which was incurable that time. Pres. Quezon stayed at the Malinta Tunnel less than 2 months, from Dec. 29, 1941 to Feb. 20, 1942, before being transported to the United States to seek medical treatment. He died in 1944, not able to witness the liberation of the Philippines which happened in March 2, 1945.

The longest lateral near the North Entrance is where the 1000-bed hospital was positioned. Few more laterals and we got to the headquarters of Gen. McArthur, then to his infamous escape tunnel which is parallel to the main tunnel, leading to the west entrance. His exit was well positioned to the Lorcha Dock where he boarded the boat for Cagayan de Oro, from where he was brought to Darwin, Australia through a chartered flight.

Sunrise, the Water and the Mountain

Sunrise the next morning found us just beside the Pacific War Memorial complex. Resting my back behind a century-old tree, I was energized with the breathtaking site of the daybreak --- enough to put me on the mood to rush to the beach and brave the morning waves. It was high tide at the South Dock Beach, but weren't we brave enough to dip our toes and run ashore when the waves dashed? When we learned later that the man standing beside one of the cottages was the lifeguard, we instantly became courageous soak and swim.

Mountain trek was the next inviting thing. I figured out Malinta experience would never be complete if only the tunnel was explored, so we decided to join the trek buffs. Hiking up the Malinta Hills was not tiring at all because the mountain provides plenty of acacia and ipil-ipil trees that give shade and cool wind. Confused why those two species of trees are dominant, I learned that a government effort after the war made possible an airdrop of seeds (of those species) to reforest. There are also wild fruit-bearing trees like granada and guava.

Thirty minutes have passed, and surprise! We were at the Malinta summit having an almost aerial view of Corregidor ! An awesome view of the South, North and the Engineering docks, and the Corregidor hotel almost held me back from leaving the summit. But more things are there to discover ---the gun emplacements, the water reservoir, and the searchlight.

Going down the slopes was the most exciting, not too slippery but you must have a sense of balance. "Else, you'll find yourself down the hills in just 2 minutes!" we joked around. While bracing ourselves down, we stopped by a tree sap where we found trees-sucking leeches. From there we were told how the hills got its name. "Malinta" in Filipino means "many leeches." The pre-war prisoners who built the tunnel had found lots of leeches on the hills while readying it for the excavation, so they cried "malinta!"

Things You Must Know in Corregidor

There are several other things to do in the island aside from those we tried and tested. Fishing and an island hopping called "Rock the Boat Around" are two of the options for water-fun. There are also outdoor facilities for the sporty type that include tennis and basketball courts and a swimming pool with fully-landscaped background. Nightlife lovers will never be bored as a recreation center which houses karaoke and videoke bars, billiards, table tennis and dart games is open as long there are guests around.

Visiting Corregidor can be done in two ways, one is to try its day tour which leaves the Sun Cruises Bay Terminal in Manila at 8:00 in the morning and return at 4:00 PM. The other one is to stay overnight where you can experience the comfort of Corregidor hotel and get involved in the must-try alluring activities the island offers.

For more information, you can e-mail suncruises@magsaysay.com.ph or sales_mttci@magsaysay.com.ph.

A Brave Weekend at Corregidor, Part II

The Batteries

Roughly intact 12-inch mortars abound the island. With the help of our tour guide we learned how these artilleries constituted the defense system of World War II. Battery Way was an effective means of countering the Japanese artillery in Bataan, while Battery Hern, one of the last major additions to Corregidor's defense, was designed to frustrate naval threat from the China Sea. Battery Geary and Battery Crockett were considered the most effective anti-personnel weapons of the island. Both could fire in any direction, but Battery Crocket was mounted on disappearing carriages ---that's why it's called a disappearing battery. There are a total of six disappearing gun batteries in the island, one of which is the Battery Grubbs which is the best site for sunset viewing.

The Ruins and Shrines

On our way to the Pacific War Memorial, the main attraction on the Topside, we passed by the YMCA Building, Middleside Barracks, Senior Officers Quarters and the Topside or Milelong Barracks. Our tour guide said that these buildings were made of first class cement imported from Japan while the steel bars came from the US. Milelong, world's longest military barracks for having a length of 1,520 feet, is a three-deck hurricane proof building for American officers and served as McArthur's headquarters. The three-storey Middleside Barracks housed the 60th Coast Artillery Regiment and the 91st Philippine Scout Coast Artillery Regiment. These two buildings were among the first damaged when Japanese first attacked Corregidor.

Standing on the highest part of Corregidor is the Pacific War Memorial dedicated to the Filipino and American soldiers who fought for freedom. Forty-five minutes was given to us by our tour guide to explore the whole memorial complex. To the memorial's left side are the ruins of Cine Corregidor, the old movie theatre where its former lobby now houses the cars of two great players during that time, Pres. Manuel L. Quezon and Gen. Douglas McArthur. Opposite the Cine Corregidor are the ruins of the Bachelor Officer's Quarters, while behind is the museum that houses war artifacts. (Of all the things that interest me in the museum was the old Coca-Cola bottle that tickled my imagination on how soldiers took break-time on the battlefield!) Located at the back of the memorial complex is a wing-shaped steel sculpture designed by Aristedes Demetrios symbolizing the flame of freedom burning eternally.

Just a hop away the area is a reconstruction of the Old Spanish Lighthouse where we got an awesome view of Manila Bay, the South China Sea, the neighboring provinces of Bataan and Cavite, plus a bird's eye view of the island. The original lighthouse was built by the Spaniards in 1836 and was replaced by a bigger one in 1897 before being destroyed by the war. Beside the lighthouse is a memorabilia store where you can buy the best souvenirs from Corregidor after that wonderful experience being atop the highest point in the island. (What I brought home for you? Well, my stories!)

The two newest landmarks in Corregidor are the Filipino Heroes Memorial that was erected in 1987 during the Aquino government, and the Japanese Garden of Peace which was constructed and maintained by Japan-based private groups. Filipino Heroes Memorial has 14 murals of famous and obscure Filipino heroes who fought for freedom, starting from the Battle of Mactan in 1521 to the People Power of Edsa in 1986. It was sculptured by Manuel Casal.

Another must-see memorial is the Fil-Am Friendship Park located at the Middleside. This former civilian community named Barrio Conception is now a fully landscaped park with 10-foot-statues of Filipino and American soldiers shown assisting each other.

The Malinta Tunnel Experience

Before the day tour ends everybody has the chance to experience the dramatic light and sound show restaging the war story of Corregidor, right at the historic-bomb-proof Malinta Tunnel. Scripted by late National Artist Lamberto Avellana, the show recapped the whole fun-filled touring experience of the day. (But do you know that there are more to discover in Malinta Tunnel? Wait until I tell you how exciting it was to visit its laterals at night. Spooky?)

Gearing Up for More

It was time to bid goodbye to new friends, as most of them headed for the wharf where the same Sun-Cruiser would bring them back to Manila. We overnighters were dropped off by the tranvia to the Corregidor Hotel where we started managing our own timetables. The serenity of the place fits exactly the quietude lovers, while the more adventurous individuals have plenty of things to experience. The hotel offers free-of-charge activities that include sunset and sunrise viewing and a night lateral visit at the Malinta Tunnel. Other alluring activities with minimal fees include fishing, hiking and boating around the island.

It was only 2:30 PM and long before the sunset, so we decided to take some rest on our hotel room. But despite the comfort of the cushioned-bed, thoughts of the activities made me more energetic. After grabbing some snacks, we set off for an afternoon beach walk where we got delighted in picking stones called "blood stained-stones" because of its bloodlike designs. Legends say that those are the bloods of soldiers who died in the battle ---Filipinos, Americans and Japanese, no distinctions. Before long, it was 5:00 PM, 30 minutes before the sunset. We hurried to the hotel with handfuls of stones we picked for souvenir.

A Brave Weekend At Corregidor, Part I

Aiming for a historic getaway, I found myself Saturday morning onboard the Sun Cruises ferry heading for Corregidor ----an island of valor. Situated 26 miles west of Manila, this tadpole-shaped island lies off the southern tip of Bataan Peninsula and is a strategic entrance to Manila Bay. A 45-minute bay cruise was invigorating, not just for viewing the waves and fishing boats, but also for learning some fast-facts and historical background of the island coming from the professional tour guides, the same guides that would bring us around when we get to the destination.

Where is Corregidor?

Corregidor, which belongs to the province of Cavite, has always been mistaken as part of Bataan. I got various explanations to this. Some connect the idea with the island's proximity to Bataan which takes only 30 minutes to reach by pumpboat, unlike Cavite that is an hour and 45 minute-bay cruise. Another account explicates that every time the Voice of Freedom (the radio station during the war) broadcast, Bataan and Corregidor were mentioned side-by-side because the two were the center battlefields, thus sticking to the people's mind its interrelation even after the war. Those are all correct, but the best explanation came from tour guide Pablito Martinez who recounted the island was indeed a part of Bataan during the Spanish era. Corregidor was then called La Isla de Mariveles, serving as signal station of home coming galleon. It was only in December 3, 1909 that the island was given to the province of Cavite by virtue of an executive order of then governor Gen. Cameron Forbes.

History Quick Review

For a greater appreciation of Corregidor, one must first get a feel of history. Viewing and taking pictures of ruined barracks and gaping batteries would never be as memorable if you know somehow to connect your spirit to the destination. Corregidor witnessed one of the fiercest battles in the world history, the World War II. The island was completely devastated between 1941 and 1945, first when the combined forces of Filipinos and Americans commanded by Gen. Douglas McArthur fell under the hands of the then-imperialist Japanese, and when they hit back to regain independence after almost three years of captivity.

World War II broke out in the Philippines in December 8, 1941, prompting the government of then President Manuel L. Quezon to move in to the Malinta Tunnel of Corregidor on a Christmas Eve. Japanese first attacked the island in December 29, 1941 grimly damaging the Middleside and the Topside Barracks, also known as the Milelong Barracks, and the hospital area. This resulted to the transfer of McArthur's headquarters from Milelong to a lateral in Malinta Tunnel and the construction of another lateral called the "1000 bed hospital" which actually housed 2,000 patients at a time. Around 7:30 in the evening of March 11, 1942 McArthur left the island heading for Darwin, Australia, passing through the now popular "McArthur's escape tunnel". According to tour guide Mr. Martinez, the general did not use the main tunnel in exiting because he did not want to dissuade his men seeing him leave in the middle of the war. Corregidor was the last stronghold of Fil-Am forces to surrender in May 6, 1942 with over 13,000 survivors.

The Japanese ruled the island (and the whole country) not until February 16, 1945 when American forces parachuted and landed on the Topside, starting the offensive to regain the land. After ten days of aggressive fighting the Japanese fell, with only 20 survivors. This later totaled to 42 when the rest surrendered after 11 months of hiding at the tunnel of Battery Monja. Majority of the Japanese soldiers committed suicide by blowing themselves on the tunnels of Malinta and Monkey Point and jumping off the highest cliff, now called "the suicide cliff". It was an honor for them to die than to surrender, explained to me by another tour guide Mr. Bobby Fulcher. Came March 2, 1945 McArthur officially declared the liberation of the Philippines.

Start the Fun

As I set foot on the island, I couldn't wait to discover all the places mentioned. Unique open-air busses, called Tranvia, would take us around with one tour-guide each bus --- your choice of Japanese-speaking or English-speaking guides. If you happen to board the wrong bus, don't worry, Japanese-speaking tour guides are bilingual. This 500-plus-hectare island with huge limestone formations is about four miles long and half a mile at its widest point. Its tadpole shape divides the island into four parts-the tailside, bottomside, middleside and the topside, where most of the major caliber seacoast artilleries were placed. Its strategic location at the bay was the basis why Americans fortified the island in 1902 as a military reservation. Here stand the greatest and biggest batteries for defense, named after American generals. There are 23 gun-emplacements in the island, but on a day tour only four of the more intact and powerful batteries can be visited.

As we boarded the tranvia, I readied my camera to take snap photos of all the sites ---starting off at the famous Lorcha Dock where Gen. McArthur uttered the words "I Shall Return", before departing for Australia.

Philippine Department of Tourism Offices Worldwide

Department of Tourism Manila, Philippines
TM Kalaw St. Rizal Park
Hotline (632) 525 2000
Tel Nos. (632) 523 8411 to 30
Telefax (632) 521 7374
24-Hour Tourist Assistance Hotline (632) 524 1660, 524 1728
Website:
www.wowphilippines.com.ph
www.esperiencephilippines.ph
www.wowpinoy.net

Asia Pacific - Philippine Department of Tourism

Beijing
Embassy of the Philippines
Philippine Department of Tourism
Room 14-01 CITIC Tower A
No. 19 Jiangoumenwai Dajie
Chaoyang District
Beijing 100004, People's Republic of China
work Phone (86) (10) 852 62330
Trunkline (86) (10) 651 28809
Fax Number (86) (10) 852 62331
Email: pdot@dotbeijing.com
Website: www.visitphilippines.com.cn

Guangzhou
Rm 2018-2019 Huale Dasha Plaza
No. 53 Huale Road 510060
Guangzhou, People's Republic of China
Mobile Phone
0086 138 027 91213
0086 133 264 32467
Email Address: martin-pan@21cn.com

HongKong
Creative Trend Unit 1109
11th Floor, New Kowloon Plaza
38 Tai kok Tsui Road
Kowloon, HongKong
Work Phone: (852) 238 12268
Fax Number: (852) 23967462
Email Address: hk@creativetrend.com
Website: www.wowphilippines.com.hk

New Delhi
1110 Naurang House
21 K.G. Marg, New Delhi 110 001, India
Work Phone: +91-11-416 69477
Fax Number: +91-11-416 69577
Email Address: sanjeet@sanjeet.in

Osaka
Philippine Department of Tourism
Honmachi DIS Bldg.
1F Honmachi 3-2-5
Japan, Osaka, Chuo-ku, 541-0053
Work Phone: (816) 625 12400
Fax Number: (816) 625 12401
Email Address: dotosaka@crux.ocn.ne.jp
Website: www.dotosaka.com

Seoul
Philippine Department of Tourism
Suite 801, Paiknam Bldg.,
Euljiro 1 (il)-ga Jung-gu,
Seoul 100-191, Korea
Work Phone: (822) 598 2290
Fax Number: (822) 318 0520
Website: www.wowphilippines.or.kr

Shanghai
Philippine Consulate General
Philippine Department of Tourism
Suite 527 Nanjing West Road
Shanghai, China 200040
Work Phone: +862-1 6279 8337
Fax Number: +862-1 6279 8332
Email Address: gerry1003@yahoo.com

Singapore
Philippine Department of Tourism
400 Orchard Road
13-08 Orchard Towers Singapore 238875
Work Phone: (65) 673 87165
Fax Number: (65) 673 82604
Email Address: philtours_sinpacific.net.sg
Website: www.wowphilippines.com.sg

Sydney
Philippine Department of Tourism
Suite 401 4th Floor Thakral House
301 George Street, Sydney
New South Wales 2000 Australia
Work Phones:
(612) 927 93380, 927 93384
(612) 927 93387
Fax Number:
(612) 927 93381
Email Address: info@philippinetourism.com.au
Website: www.philippinetourism.com.au

Taipei
Manila Economic & Cultural Office
Philippine Representative Office
Tourism Center, 11/F #176 Chang Chun Road
Taipei, 104 Taiwan
Work Phone: (886-2) 2507 1936
Email Address: philtour@ms57.hinet.net

Tokyo
Embassy of the Philippines
Philippine Department of Tourism
5-15-5 Roponggi, Minato-uk
Tokyo, Japan 106-85-37
Work Phone: (81) (03) 556 21583
Fax Number: (81) (03) 556 21593
Email Address:
dotjapan@gol.com
yasudot@gol.com
Website: www.premium-philippines.com

Europe - Philippine Department of Tourism

Frankfurt
Philippine Department of Tourism
Level 1, Kaiserhof Stasse 7
D-60313, Frankfurt Am Main
Frankfurt, Germany
Work Phone: (49) (69) 208 9394
Fax Number: (49) (69) 285 127
Email Address: phildot-fra@t-online.de
Website: www.wowphilippines.de

London
Embassy of the Philippines
Philippine Department of Tourism
146 Cromwell Rd.
London SW7 4EF, United Kingdom
Work Phone: (44) (20) 7835 1100
Fax Number: (44) (20) 7835 1926
Email: infotourism@wowphilippines.co.uk
Website: www.wowphilippines.co.uk

Moscow
Embassy of the Philippines
Karmanitsky, Per 6, Moscow, Russia
Work Phone: 790 315 96872
Email:
phildot-rus@istel.ru
phildot-rus@iskratelecom.ru

North America- Philippine Department of Tourism

Chicago
Philippine Consulate General
Philippine Department of Tourism
30 North Michigan Ave., Suite 913
Chicago, Illinois 60602, USA
Work Phone: (1) (312) 782 2475
Fax Number: (1) (312) 782 2476
Email:
pdotchi@aol.com
vvmorales@aol.com
Website:
www.wowphilippines.com.ph
www.experiencephilippines.ph

Los Angeles
Philippine Consulate General
Philippine Department of Tourism
3660 Wilshire Blvd. 900 Suite 216
Los Angeles, California 90010, USA
Work Phone: (1) (213) 487 4525
Fax Number: (1) (213) 386 4063
Email:
pdotia@aol.com
annecuevas@aol.com
Website:
www.wowphilippines.com.ph
www.experiencephilippines.ph

New York
Philippine Consulate General
Philippine Department of Tourism
556, Fifth Ave., New York, 10036, USA
Work Phone: (1) (212) 575 7915
Fax Number: (1) (212) 302 6759
Email:
pdotny@aol.com
emmaruthyulo@aol.com
Website:
www.wowphilippines.com.ph
www.experiencephilippines.ph

San Francisco
Philippine Consulate General
Philippine Department of Tourism
447 Sutter St. 5 F Suite 507
San Francisco, California 94108, USA
Work Phone: (1) (415) 956 4060
Fax Number: (1) (415) 956 2060
Email:
pdotsf@aol.com
renesaints@aol.com
Website:
www.wowphilippines.com.ph
www.experiencephilippines.ph

Guimaras, More Than Just Mangoes (Part II)

When in Guimaras, it would be a sin to overlook the island resort of Costa Aguada. This resort contained in the island called Inampulugan offers first class amenities and carefully developed and maintained surroundings. This island is four to five times bigger than the Nagarao Island, and has a vast mountain that's best for trekking and biking. Some of its attractions that we were able to spot are the mini-zoo, the mangrove plantation and the thriving community that produces soap and other materials made from coconut. The resort, and the whole island so to speak, is self-sufficient ---they grow their own vegetables and fruit trees, raise animals and even culture crabs. You will never undermine their capability to live independently when you try their ice cream made from coconut milk and meat. I promised myself to come back to this island soon, by then I swear it will be more than just a day-tour.

Leaving Costa Aguada was hard but the thought of our next activity pushed me to hop my way to the pumpboat. It was time for island hopping and sea adventures!

There are many island resorts in Guimaras, and each has its own uniqueness (and variation in accommodation costs, of course). Island hopping is favorable and will not cost you any, except for paying the boatman. Resort owners and operators are very friendly, and some of them will even tour you around their area without expecting anything in return. Exploring the coastal attractions is equally refreshing, especially if your boatman will bring you to the best snorkeling and swimming areas.

While trying to look brave as I clutched my left arm on the pumpboat and did some stokes on the water, I saw huge facilities over the sea. Curiosity brought us to the fishery research sub-station with the acronym SEAFDEC. Good thing that the research staffs were accommodating enough to welcome us aboard their floating “laboratory.” This sub-station takes care of the biggest bangus, lapu-lapu, red snapper and sea bass I ever saw ---almost two to three feet long, and about four kilos! I should have had asked to take home even a kilo of any of the fish (of, course, it could not be possible because those fish are under study!)

After braving waves and depths, we sampled the land adventures. First on this new set of itinerary was visiting the Trappist Monastery, a community of Trappist Monks. As you would normally expect of a monastery, it is a blissful place suited for individual or group retreats. But what you might not assume is that this monastery produces and sells delectable homemade jams and goodies like mango and calamansi marmalade, and mango cookies. Before leaving the monastery, I wasted no time in sampling their delicacies, hmmmm, want some?

Next stop was the Farm Tourism Enterprise, which is being developed by the Department of Tourism. It is a kind of resort for people interested in experiencing the typical life of farmers and fishermen. Though considered a resort, this property still maintains the unspoiled natural beauty of the mountains that it looks like a typical farmer’s land. Tourists will live in bamboo cottages and their everyday itinerary composed of going to the farm and planting together with the farmers or fishing together with the fishermen. After the day’s work, they can refresh themselves on the cool water of Macopo falls, a small waterfall down the mountain that dump into a lovely swimming hole.

Before end of the tour, we managed to visit the largest mango plantation in Guimaras, the Oro Verde. It is a privately owned plantation and visit to this property needs special permission. With the help of the Tourism staff who asked permission for us, we were toured from the nursery area to the mature trees. But we were unfortunate that mango season was over and no more fruit left on the trees. Anyway, we still caught some in the local market when we passed by before leaving the province.

Our final stop was at the Caliraya, Nueva Valencia (a town in Guimaras), the home of bag weavers who produce export quality pandan and piña bags. Our two hundred pesos bought us one big and two small bags that if bought in a commercial store may cost not just double but triple the amount.

It was the end of our second day in Guimaras. Cramming the weaved-bags and mango delicacies on our suitcase gave me a hard time, but nothing beats the uneasy feeling of leaving this province that showed me what rustic setting is all about. As we boarded the jeepney that would bring us to the Jordan wharf, and as I experienced for the final time the bumpy and rusty roads, my eyes were set on the direction of where we left off.

Guimaras, More than Just Mangoes (Part 1)

I know my country produces the best mangoes (somehow subjective, of course)and I took this fact for granted, until I visited Iloilo and found myself delighted with the mouth-watering mangoes they served me. Upon knowing those mangoes came from a former sub-province of Iloilo that can be reached within 30 minutes from the city's wharf, I wasted no time in planning to see this most promising province with the name Guimaras!
A place where mango tree population is greater than its inhabitants, Guimaras takes pride as the Philippine exporter of mangoes. This province is composed of a small island and neighboring islets (some are as small as 50 square-meters) resting between the provinces of Iloilo and Negros Occidental. Both Negros and Iloilo are best jump-off point to Guimaras.

From what was supposed to be just a weekend getaway in Iloilo, we extended it for another two days to accommodate my yearned adventures in the so called “mango state.” Ilongos (natives of Iloilo) I met attested there are more than just mangoes in Guimaras---that further thrilled me to discover the rest. Would you like to join us? Pack your bags, and let’s go!

But before boarding the motorboat that would bring us to Jordan, the capital of Guimaras, let me give you this tip: don’t get annoyed if after you stepped on the land of Guimaras the local coastguards would inspect all your luggage. They are not alarmed about Swiss knife or any metal objects, what they are guarding most are their mangoes ---they are watchful not to have their mangoes crossbreed. The point is, you can bring mangoes outside of Guimaras, but you can never bring in even a single one.

If you happen to have no idea of the best resort or getaway in this tiny province, you can conveniently drop by the provincial tourism which set up a small office beside the Jordan dockside, basically to provide immediate help to tourists. There are more than a dozen resorts in the coastline boasting of white beaches, but if you prefer more serene and rustic setting you definitely are my kind. Let’s go to island resorts!

A 100,000 square-meter islet in the southern side of Guimaras, called Nagarao Island Resort was our destination. One and a half hour jeepney ride from Jordan wharf across dusty roads brought us to a small private pier where I got really amazed with the unique way of announcing our arrival. We raised a red flag to signal our coming to the staff of the resort almost a kilometer away! With that initial experience I immediately felt the simplicity and candor of the place we were heading.

Less than 15 minutes later a pumpboat arrived and fetched us. While our boat nearly approached the islet I drew out my neck in getting the best view of this destination that promised to be a rustic and peaceful haven. Though I almost got elongated neck, still I could not see cottages or even a single dwelling in the islet because it is literally amid lush vegetation!

After docking, the resort staff led us to the sandy walkway underneath mangroves and pandan trees (a local plant belonging to the coconut species). It was only then that I saw its “hidden assets” ---cottages made up of local woods and bamboo, a small plain swimming pool, and the “main bungalow” that holds the common dining area. Don’t expect landscaped gardens and 5-star hotel accommodation, but I tell you, this place has a character of its own that you would never learn how to describe. Well, we can get started by calling it “a paradise lost.”

Before sundown we started to wander around the place through following a hiking trail. 30 minutes and we were able to see the whole islet. No manicured lawn and well-groomed flowers---there is actually nothing that will tempt you to take a second look, except when you reach the hills and cliffs of the trail. From there I was trying to picture the corals revealed on the beach during low tide. The place is devoid of pretensions of technology and creative designs, it is plain nature…and that makes it captivating!

One more thing that makes this resort more special is the way it serves its guests. We were actually treated not as visitors but as part of one big family. We ate our meals together with the rest of the tourists (local and foreign alike) in a long dining table that accommodates at least 20 persons. Service is very personal, it’s like living in an ancestral house with kind and reliable housekeepers. Most of the tourists are regular vacationers and what kept them from coming back is the feel of being in a “home away from home”.

Except for island hoping and snorkeling which are best in the morning, there are not so much activities you can do in this islet in the afternoon. Serene and simple living is what this islet boasts about.

After dusk I waited for the moonlight while enjoying the night sea breeze at the garden-bench beside our cottage. On our cottage’s left is an inviting view of the beach while a soothing sight of the trees and grass is on the other side. From there I clearly saw the waves crashing on the coast and forming cloud-like illusions on the sea. As the moon slowly rose, I felt being put to sleep by the lullaby created by the sounds of the waves and night birds. I felt almost dreaming.

Whatever your idea of fun and relaxation is...

Many says to balance your work life with your personal life, you need to take some time off. Take a weekend getaway or a just a short trip to escape from a commonplace. This is a tested way to get refreshed and return to work with a fresh outlook. And now I say, to balance your work and personal life...gather your stories together and build your sanity in front of your pc at home.

Grab a latte at the city cafe, see the night sights and perfect mix of urban attractions, or get a rugged trip to the beaches and mountains in a short jaunt or an extended-weekend vacation. Whatever your idea of fun and relaxation is, help me put it here.